with slow long shutter, you have made the water looks like cloud. the composition of foreground and background is great. I like the way you took it. it really is beautiful. thanks for sharing this picture to us.
This is the kind of photography I'm trying to get into. I wanted to ask, what settings did you use on your camera for this shot that aren't included in the EXIF data? I can't afford a Rebel right now, I'm using my Canon S5 IS, but I wondered if any settings might be similar. thanks.
I shot this in manual mode using a circular polarizer and an ND400 filter. I bracketed a series of identical shots, each 30-second exposures, but I adjusted the aperture by 2 stops in between each shot. This gave me a range of photos from dark to light. From these, I chose one that was properly exposed for the foreground and another that was properly exposed for the sky. I then blended these two photos together in photoshop to mimic the effect of a graduated ND filter.
Thank you for that info, to be honest I don't know a thing about how to use filters and polarizers for photography.
When you blended the two images in photoshop, how do you do something like that, did you cut the sky from one and paste it into the other? I currently use Paint Shop Pro 7, which is very limited in its functionality.
Circular polarizers are very helpful for getting a rich, dark blue color out of your skies & making the clouds stand out, and also for eliminating unwanted reflections from the surface of water when photographing waterfalls or shorelines. ND (neutral density) filters limit the amount of light entering your lens, allowing you to get away with longer exposures than would otherwise be possible. This photo is a perfect example, as I shot a 30-second exposure directly into bright sunlight. With no filter, I would have only been able to get away with maybe a 1/2-second exposure at most, but the ND400 filter darkens things to the point that you can barely see through it, and so it made a 30-second exposure possible in these conditions.
As for the blending technique in Photoshop, all I do is paste the lighter photo on top of the darker one and then use the eraser tool at a fairly large size and a high level of "fuzziness" so that there are no hard lines from my erasing. I just erase the blown out sky in the lighter image to reveal the properly exposed sky in the image beneath, then merge the two images and save the file. It looks much more natural than HDR and takes a minimal amount of time & effort to achieve good results.